If this is the case, your vented hot water cylinder will need to be replaced. The ball valve can be turned to allow either a full flow of water or prevent any water flow. Within the valve is a ball, hence the name, which has a hole in the middle and rotates when the valve turned — water will either be allowed to flow through the hole or not.
If the valve is stuck they it might need to be repaired, although in some cases the best thing to do is have it replaced to avoid further issues. The overflow pipe is there to prevent a water container from overflowing.
The hole towards the top of sinks is there to prevent water overflowing onto the floor and header tanks have a pipe that works in the same way. In the feed and expansion tank, there will be a float valve another name for ball valves which controls the flow of water into the tank. If hot water is coming out of the overflow pipe, turn the system off, wait for the water to cool right down and set the float valve to allow less water into the tank.
Being in a loft space that's often unheated can mean that the water in the header tank is susceptible to freezing during the winter. Frozen water in the tank can lead to frozen pipes which greatly increases the risk of leaks. The solution is to fit an insulation jacket around the tank so that the water stays above freezing. Brown sludge is common in open vented heating systems and if left can cause blockages which can reduce the efficiency of the central heating and potentially cause the boiler to overheat.
Sludge with a brown colour can form when objects end up in the header tank — this used to be a major problem but header tanks now come with byelaw 30 kits which include a lid. When removing the sludge, try not to disturb the water too much as it could end up making its way down the overflow pipe. Your central heating system might also benefit from a powerflush to clear out any sludge, debris or rust that's blocking the water from flowing properly.
To turn the mains water supply off, you'll need to find the inside stop tap. Once you've found it, turn it off and then run the cold water taps around your home to completely drain the system. When it comes to replacing your existing boiler, you might want to consider switching to a sealed system and remove the risk of header tank overflow altogether.
Unlike open vented systems, sealed systems don't have a header tank in the loft, instead, they have an expansion vessel that's often fitted into the boiler itself. While an open vented heating system can only work with regular boilers, sealed systems can work with combi, system and regular boilers.
A heating engineer can let you know the most suitable heating system for your home based on the size of your property and the demand for central heating and domestic hot water. You can get free quotes from heating engineers based in your area using Boiler Guide. So I can confirm that it is not the Ball valve.
The tank in the loft continues to fill up over a number of days and overflows via the overflow pipe outside. We have not had our central heating on or the emersion heater and still it is filling up.
I tested this today, no heating or emersion heater and did not use the hot water for several hours and the tank water depth rose by about an inch.
Our system is an indirect vented system with tank in loft. The Tank is a Showmax Supercal Cylinder. Can someone please help with advice.
I can stop this overflow by turning off the feed to the copper cylinder from the smaller central heating header tank which is slightly higher in the loft by 1 ft.
I think the heat exchanger pipe inside my indirect cylinder which is fed from the small header tank is leaking, and the water levels are trying to balance out by flowing into the rest of the indirect cylinder and up into the storage tank, thereby causing the water to rise and run out through the overflow??
I took the temperature of the water in the cold water tank and it is very warm, a lot warmer than the smaller central heating header tank, the boiler is off but my immersion is on.
Could it be possible that the Ball cock was passing and you changed it but didn't set the level low enough with the new one? If it's a part one brass valve, you bend them to set the depth. The cold level in that tank would normally be 4"-5" ish, I would say a couple of inches above the outlet and check it when the pump is running too.
The cause of your upstairs radiators working when Hot water only is on is Gravity circulation or at least I suspect it is. You could have an anti Gravity, single check valve , fitted to the heating circuit, which would mean the Heating only comes on with the Pump.
This is of course something you need a Heating Engineer to look over for you as it needs someones eyes on the job first, for safety reasons.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, lets ignore the upstairs radiators heating up. I only mentioned that to explain the system. That is fine for me. In the attic there are 3 tanks. Two large ones and this smaller one. About 40cm x 30cm and about 30cm deep. I will adjust the ball cock so it isn't so deep.
At the moment it fills to within about 4 or 5 cm of the overflow maybe a bit more. I will run it for a few hours and see what happens. Thanks again. No Problem at all. You could turn the water off and bale it out of course to save time and then set it as it should be. When running there should be no water pumping over the expansion either.
This Boiler, is it a Vulcan Continental? Don't see many now, nearly all gone. It must be over 40? I did turn the water off and bale it all out. It is a pretty old boiler. Simple though and as long as I don't forget to change the thermocouple every year before winter it runs like a dream ish It is usual for that tank to have warm water in it when the heating has been on for some time? Seems like a terrible waste!
Leon said:. Click to expand Status Not open for further replies. Similar threads J. Replies 21 Views Aug 30, Undertrained. Jonathanjc Aug 20, Central Heating Forum. Replies 5 Views Aug 23, Last Plumber.
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